In my hurry, I have destroyed the small white LED.
I should have waited for the soldering iron to warm up
so I can desolder the metal contacts from the tiny little
resistor and diode before I can remove the LED. Now,
I realised why the White LED is so dim. They used a
1.2K Ohm resistor for a 12volt input. Should have used
half the value and the LED would be brighter. Also, they
inserted a diode there in case some bright spark used
the wrong polarity. But I tell you, the resistor is so
tiny (~ 4mm), its a wonder they can fit in there.
Here is how its done.I should have waited for the soldering iron to warm up
so I can desolder the metal contacts from the tiny little
resistor and diode before I can remove the LED. Now,
I realised why the White LED is so dim. They used a
1.2K Ohm resistor for a 12volt input. Should have used
half the value and the LED would be brighter. Also, they
inserted a diode there in case some bright spark used
the wrong polarity. But I tell you, the resistor is so
tiny (~ 4mm), its a wonder they can fit in there.
A: There is a reason why the White LED was so small. It was designed as a 3mm LED but with the lens taken out. So, this makes it shines forward. I could not find a 3mm Red/Green LED replacement and so, with a 5mm LED, it was too big to fit in without being hit by the switch button cover.
B: So, I have to unplug the LED module, desolder the metal connectors, cut off about 5mm or so of the while plastic column, at the same time making sure the orientation of the new LED is correct. If the voltage passes is positive, I want it to be green and if its the wrong polarity, I want it to be Red.
C: Put in the new 5mm LED, resolder the metal connectors and plug in back to the switch. So, now, you have the new 5mm modified LED module.
D: Now, when I press the button, the big 5mm LED will not obstruct it.
As a precaution, I soldered the resistors on the legs of
the LED's solder lug. Sometimes, it's too easy to forget
what you have done when you revisit the project at a
later date. By then, you would have assumed it is OK
because the wrong label outside says the LED is rated
12 volts when it's not, and blow it to Kingdom come.
the LED's solder lug. Sometimes, it's too easy to forget
what you have done when you revisit the project at a
later date. By then, you would have assumed it is OK
because the wrong label outside says the LED is rated
12 volts when it's not, and blow it to Kingdom come.
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