OK, so the mouse I got from eBay was bad. I am not sure what the problem was, because it keeps "disconnecting" from the Notebook. Everytime it comes out from Hibernation, I have to either take the battery out and put it back again repeatedly or, unplug the USB transceiver. Whats more, the second mouse, which I ordered from the same supplier, and was sent a day before the red mouse, got lost in the post. And after telling them about and they should be sending over a replacement, I am not too excited about it anymore. Its a very bad mouse.
And so, its embarrassing if I gave one to my Dad, which I have been planning to. But not anymore. So, it was while we're looking for some school shoes for Kaelynn's next year, I came across this mouse from the computer shop next door, across Section14's Digital Mall. I am still in the mood for stubby transceivers. The best mouse (so far) was the AVF from Jusco (RM89.00) but it had a big transceiver, almost like thumbdrive. Which is not a good thing given that the USB ports on my Dad's Notebook were located at the sides.
Lighting the PKD Part I
When Kal told me to take my time, I literally took my time on this. Heh. Nah, its just that I was quite busy with getting my car up and running and also, with my other projects.
Anyway, let's have a look at this project. What Kal needed was to light up the bottom console of the PKD. He has given me two versions of the bottom cover; one made of metal and the other, a plastic cast copy of the metal.
Anyway, let's have a look at this project. What Kal needed was to light up the bottom console of the PKD. He has given me two versions of the bottom cover; one made of metal and the other, a plastic cast copy of the metal.
OK, the parts are here and looking back at
the huge cables I used, its going to be a bit
of a problem to fit everything in there.
the huge cables I used, its going to be a bit
of a problem to fit everything in there.
The first problem of the day is the placement of
the slide switch. I suspect that the rectangle at
the side wall where the switch is going to be, is
actually the ACTUAL panel of the original switch
the slide switch. I suspect that the rectangle at
the side wall where the switch is going to be, is
actually the ACTUAL panel of the original switch
As there is no room inside, I have to cut the
both flanges off the switch as there is no room
for even 0.25 millimetre. Its a tight fit.
both flanges off the switch as there is no room
for even 0.25 millimetre. Its a tight fit.
And just to make the switch move smoothly,
I might need to file the rectangular hole just
a bit more, well, rectangular. The red area is
just how the hole should be as its a bit too
small on the left. Shame I don't have a file
today and so, I must remember to buy one
tomorrow.
I might need to file the rectangular hole just
a bit more, well, rectangular. The red area is
just how the hole should be as its a bit too
small on the left. Shame I don't have a file
today and so, I must remember to buy one
tomorrow.
Test fit with the 3mm LEDs. So, after filing
it next week, I will get the chance to use
the JB Weld stuff.
it next week, I will get the chance to use
the JB Weld stuff.
The next piece, is the plastic piece which I would
have to get the correct drill bit as the one I have
is 1/8 or something which is a 0.0175 too big if I
compared it with a 3mm (0.3) drill bit. This is to
make sure the 3mm LEDs don't slip out of the hole.
But I'm also worried about doing the rectangular
hole since I am crap at modelling and also I might
not have the correct tools. I only have a cutter to
and a soon to be flat file to help me on this.
have to get the correct drill bit as the one I have
is 1/8 or something which is a 0.0175 too big if I
compared it with a 3mm (0.3) drill bit. This is to
make sure the 3mm LEDs don't slip out of the hole.
But I'm also worried about doing the rectangular
hole since I am crap at modelling and also I might
not have the correct tools. I only have a cutter to
and a soon to be flat file to help me on this.
Test fit of the 12volt battery into the metal bottom
cover. I have to use the thin wires and since this is
metal, isolate all electrical joints, especially the LED
legs. Its a bit tight and so, the connectors to the green
LEDs might be a problem unless I can get a miniature
version or a different connector.
cover. I have to use the thin wires and since this is
metal, isolate all electrical joints, especially the LED
legs. Its a bit tight and so, the connectors to the green
LEDs might be a problem unless I can get a miniature
version or a different connector.
And so, this is how much the battery and the holder
jut out from the bottom cover, which I think is 5mm
jut out from the bottom cover, which I think is 5mm
Still, once I get it all done, there is a slight problem with connecting the green LEDs since they're on the PKD main body. I am not sure if the LEDs were connected parallel or in series. I think I would need to talk to Kal about getting him to pass me both versions of the PKD so I can work on it until its complete.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)